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frozen-waterfall-ladakh

Staying at the Grand Dragon Ladakh in Winter

Posted on January 14, 2016November 6, 2016

When the Go Air flight started to taxi at the Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport at Leh, they announced that the outside temperature was -3 degree Celsius. I am no stranger to temperatures in minus but I never get used to them. I was happy that I was staying at the Grand Dragon Ladakh in winter because it is centrally heated.

On our arrival to the Grand Dragon Hotel, Leh, we were offered the Khata (the white scarf) as a welcome. The lobby was warm, I knew I would survive the cold. However, Leh is 11,500 meters above sea level and I was wondering how the altitude would treat me this time. It was my first experience of flying into such a high altitude. I felt fine at arrival. I didn’t take Diamox before, during or after the trip.

A Late Breakfast

hot-chocolateAs soon as we arrived we were invited to a late breakfast. Out flight landed at 10.35 am and food was what I was looking for! We were offered garlic soup as it is said to help in acclimatizing. It tasted good as well! The breakfast at the Grand Dragon is an elaborate affair. They have Indian, continental and some local jams and butter as well. I would start with fruits, go on to porridge and finish it off with their South Indian spread!

Tea, coffee and juice was also there. I enjoyed a cup of hot chocolate too. It tastes so good in cold weather. I tired the apricot apple jam and quite liked it as it was without any artificial sweeteners.

The Room with a View

grand-dragon-ladakh-room
The Heated Room with a View!

After breakfast I headed to my room which was on the second floor (207). I immediately fell in love with the view of the Stok Range from my room.

After the view I searched for tea. I had Twinnings tea bags, creamer and a kettle for hot water. There were, cookies, dry fruits and fruits in my room. I was all set to enjoy my stay.

There was a comfortable double bed in my room. The room was heated. The windows would open, so I could take pictures of the Stok Range at will.

The bathroom didn’t have a bathtub. But then wasting water in Leh anyway is a bigger crime. So I was happy not to have the temptation. There was hot water and I was happy with it. The floor of the bathroom is heated for the guest’s comfort. Now that was luxury!

Lunch

dining-area-grand-dragon

On the first day I was the only person to go down for lunch after that late breakfast. I had a soup and noodles, both were good. All the other meals I had at ‘Zasgyath’ were well done. The high tea was served at Tusrabs. Kahwa was my hot favorite.

Meeting the Doctor

On the first evening a lady doctor visited us. She told me that my oxygen level was 93, and I had already acclimatized. I was happy to hear that. My BP was also normal. However, that said, I still had mild headache by the night. The first night I woke up many times. The second night was more peaceful. By the third night I could happily sleep through the night.

I have a mild nose bleed from the trip but I am sure it will go away in a few days. I also realized that it is better to take the Diamox if the doctor prescribes it! I am happy that I didn’t need it as usual!

Bonfire Dinners in the Chilling Cold Weather

bonfire-winter
Bonfire on the Terrace

We had two bonfire dinners out at the terrace of the hotel! It was a barbecue. The hot rum and the fire helped a lot.

wine-by-the-fire
Muddle Wine by the Fire!

I was wrapped from head to toe. But it is doable, to sit out in -15 degrees around fire and enjoy food and drinks!

Conversations

The owner of the hotel Mr Ghulam Mohiuddin sat with us had a long conversation about his family’s journey into hospitality. He said Ladakh was opened to foreigners in 1974 and 60 ‘hippies’ visited Leh that year! I wonder who they were and if they can be traced! In 1976 the family took the first foreigners in their home! The first guests were 3 foreigners who stayed with the family. They extended the home to 30 rooms eventually which was the old Dragon Hotel. Even now the family lives next to the new Grand Dragon Hotel.

We saw the paintings done by his elder brother, Gulam Mustafa. Many film crew stay in the hotel when they shoot in Ladakh. A big star wanted to buy a painting but Mr Mustafa refused as he does not sell his art!

hotel-staff-grand-dragon
Gaggan and Sanjit the Friendly Staff at the Grand Dragon Ladakh

I also enjoyed talking to the hotel staff. They were from Nepal, Solan, West Bengal, Srinagar among other places. I could see the staff quarters behind the hotel. When I asked Gaggan about heating in his room, he told me they too have heaters and cold was not a problem. The young drivers on payroll too.

Food

dessert
Dessert- My favorite Part of the Meal!

I quite liked the food at the hotel. They did the dishes mildly for me. As I do not like too many spices, the food was perfect for me. I particularly enjoyed marshmallows by the bonfire as it was a first for me. The jacket potatoes were done to perfection. Desserts were awesome too!

Sauna and Steam

I enjoyed the steam and sauna for one evening. They go well the cold weather. They are located next to the gym. There are separate areas for men and women.

Gym

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The Gym at the Grand Dragon, Ladakh

I saw the gym and I happily gave it a miss. My head anyway was protesting against the altitude. But if you need it, there it is.

Excursions 

ladakh-winter
Ladakh in Winter!

You can book your excursions with the hotel. We did two long trips, one to Alchi and Lamayuru and the other to Thiksey and Chemdey. The hotel uses heated Innovas and their drivers are courteous.

Overall, I had a great time at the Grand Dragon, Leh, Ladakh. The central heating helped a lot to deal with the severely cold weather.

PS. I was invited by the Grand Dragon Hotel on this trip.

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39 thoughts on “Staying at the Grand Dragon Ladakh in Winter”

  1. Prasad Np says:
    January 14, 2016 at 11:44 pm

    -15 degree pad kar hee I am getting shivers…

    Hats off to click pics in that cold…

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:51 pm

      Heated hotel, heated car, it was -15 only outside! 😀

      Reply
  2. Amit Prakash says:
    January 15, 2016 at 1:40 am

    The frozen waterfall is so beautiful…

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:51 pm

      Thank you Amit, it was quite a sight indeed!

      Reply
  3. rupam { xhobdo } says:
    January 15, 2016 at 5:53 am

    Nice to read, Beautiful photos.
    Greetings

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:50 pm

      Thank you Rupam.

      Reply
  4. Kishor Kumar says:
    January 15, 2016 at 8:04 am

    Nice place… Nice room…and coffee looks nice too

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:49 pm

      It is hot chocolate Kishore and yes it was a nice trip too!

      Reply
  5. The Untourists says:
    January 15, 2016 at 8:34 am

    Such a nice place. Is visiting the doctor a normal practice?

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:48 pm

      I normally don’t do it even on altitude but it was the hotels practice. No harm in getting a consult if you are at a high altitude.

      Reply
  6. Archana Kapoor says:
    January 15, 2016 at 9:00 am

    The first and last pic are mind-blowing… I think I caught one on Insta…
    Seems like a beautiful place and a great hotel to be in 🙂
    Thanks for sharing 🙂

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:47 pm

      Thank you Archana, it was easy to click nice pictures with such stunning scenery all around!

      Reply
  7. Indrani says:
    January 15, 2016 at 11:12 am

    Indeed a grand place! The first pic is mind blowing.

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:45 pm

      Thank you Indrani.

      Reply
  8. Shilpi Dutta says:
    January 15, 2016 at 11:55 am

    Now you are almost an expert in Leh Ladakh trip and I know whom to ask anything if I plan some day. Great post as always, great pics, and the hotel is beautiful. What is that dessert name that looks like a burfi in coconut shaving? Please tell me the name globetrotter 🙂

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:42 pm

      Shilpi it was lemon something and it was yum. You are right about the coconut shaving and it added to the taste. Next time I will write down the name!

      Reply
  9. My Unfinished Life (@MyUnfinishedlyf) says:
    January 15, 2016 at 1:23 pm

    Nice Hotel!!!

    I will keep in mind if I plan a visit to Ladakh..the recent incidences by taxi unions there has scared me and my brother who’s been twice to leh/ladakh on bike told me that he completely forgot about ladakh after bikign into spiti valley last summer…and highly recommends i spend my travel money on spiti rather than Ladakh!!

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:40 pm

      Sushmita Spiti not having an airport is working to its advantage, not too many people who want to brave the backbreaking journey. You could try Ladakh in winter it is beautiful and it is minus the crowd.

      Reply
  10. Parul says:
    January 15, 2016 at 3:05 pm

    Leh has been on my list. Someday 🙂
    Good to read your experience!

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:39 pm

      Parul I am told it gets packed in summer! Avoid school holidays if you can.

      Reply
  11. Anupam Chakraborty says:
    January 15, 2016 at 4:12 pm

    Seems like a good place.. as usually pics are wonderful!

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:38 pm

      Thank you Anupam.

      Reply
  12. Arun says:
    January 15, 2016 at 7:05 pm

    This hotel seems to be really good. The first pic is brilliant!

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:37 pm

      Thank you Arun.

      Reply
  13. Swati & Sam (The tales of a traveler ) says:
    January 15, 2016 at 7:38 pm

    I see myself and Sam in one pic 😉 Beautiful property and the room with a view was the best part. Waking up to views of snowcapped mountains and the bon fire evenings.

    We had so much fun together in that winter wonderland 🙂

    http://thetalesofatraveler.com/2016/01/15/kempinski-resort-review-seychelles/

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 15, 2016 at 7:52 pm

      Yes Swati, it was great meeting you and Sam! Waiting to see your Ladakh pictures.

      Reply
  14. Sandeepa Chetan says:
    January 15, 2016 at 10:30 pm

    This looks perfect place to stay. The best thing is Mr Ghulam Mohiuddin started attending guests from home initially, he must be a good host. Our experience the places run by owners are always have some warmth.

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 18, 2016 at 11:12 am

      Yes Sandeep even though the hotel has a lot of rooms the staff is a treat! In summer they are booked solid I was told.

      Reply
  15. sudersan says:
    January 17, 2016 at 12:50 am

    nice post!!! and the room looks fabulous!

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 18, 2016 at 11:12 am

      Thank you Sudersan.

      Reply
  16. Sadhvi mythili says:
    January 17, 2016 at 10:46 am

    Great pictures , Pretty nice place to stay .But i can not imagine myself going to this place in winter

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 18, 2016 at 11:13 am

      Sadhvi 😀 I know it feels scarily cold but it is manageable!

      Reply
  17. Mahesh Semwal says:
    January 18, 2016 at 11:12 am

    Seems to be good hotel. Frizzed fall pic is awesome.

    Reply
    1. Mridula Dwivedi says:
      January 18, 2016 at 11:14 am

      Thank you Mahesh, central heating was a bliss at the hotel. Then I could enjoy watching frozen waterfalls!

      Reply
  18. Charukesi says:
    January 18, 2016 at 2:19 pm

    Nice recap of our stay – I could have never managed these minus temps without these material comforts 🙂

    Reply
  19. Radhika says:
    January 18, 2016 at 2:23 pm

    Mystic Ladakh!! Beautiful pictures I am planning to go this year(probably summer) but going through the posts i realised i might face too much of crowd 🙁

    Reply
  20. Chaitali Patel says:
    January 18, 2016 at 4:29 pm

    That first photo… how stunning! Looks like a lovely hotel. We stayed in a local guesthouse on our trip to Ladakh. It was a big house with many rooms and there was another building that had the restaurant, kitchen and that housed the family. The highlight was their little garden with an apple tree. But the hotel was so basic that I did miss my clean sheets after a while. 🙂 Your hotel looks amazing.

    Reply
  21. Soumya Nambiar says:
    January 18, 2016 at 6:17 pm

    Loved the frozen waterfall pic. Looks like you had a grand time.

    Reply
  22. Bikash Bhandary Chetry says:
    January 19, 2016 at 6:18 pm

    Enjoyed reading it. Since it is very cold in Delhi, the imagination of heated rooms is very much attracting. 🙂

    Reply

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About Me

I am Mridula Dwivedi and I started this blog in 2005. It has been an amazing ride. I have visited 33 countries till date! I have worked with many tourism boards and prominent travel companies. My blog was featured on the BBC and the Guardian.

I did my Ph.D. from IIT Kanpur. I worked full time in academics till 2015! I quit my job as a professor, thinking I will take a break for one year, which turned into five.

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