Base Camp Sankri: Sankri is a small village surrounded by hills. The next day on May 17, we were taken out on acclimatization walk of 3 Km and as we gained some height, we enjoyed watching higher peaks but still nothing very spectacular. We were, on a voluntary basis, taught how to climb down on a steep rock with help of equipment and two qualified instructors assisted us. My husband (H) refused to get involved but my nephew and I enjoyed it a lot. My nephew also managed to slip in the first instance on the rock but he was securely tied to a rope and could manage to climb down easily after he got over his initial shock. It was 12.00 noon before we were through. We had nothing much to do after this but to think of our departure the next day.
Sankri to Juda ka Talab (May 18, 2004): It was a short walk of 4 Km. In this trek, instead of walking with the help of arrow marks, we had a guide everyday. The guide walks in the front, and a person chosen as group leader among us, at the back. Our group leader was from Chennai. Yours truly was chosen as environmental leader and my role was to see that we were not leaving plastic behind and believe me it is a tough task. Our group had in all 49 trekkers.
Among that were 14 trekkers was a particular Indian state and were extremely juvenile. They were under the impression that if they made enough noise probably the rivers, trees and mountains would acknowledge their presence! It was painful trekking with them. After a day or two, our prime concern was to walk much ahead of this group (which was not difficult, as they had a few extremely slow trekkers).
So 49 of us set out on our journey to Juda ka Talab. It was a fairly easy one. But our guide could have set more moderate pace, after all the distance was not much. He being a mountain lad of 20-21 would make us run for a while and then stop for a long time. At lunch point there was a temporary tea stall selling omelet and noodles and of course tea. The YHAI provides us with packed lunch. Our guide, Shahruk, played flute and sang a few songs. The people running the tea stalls, our guide and a few members from our group tried learning the local dance. My nephew too joined them and had fun. After a break of about an hour and a half we started again.
In the post lunch walk snow capped peaks started showing their tips to us and I was thrilled. We reached Juda ka Talab around 3.30 in the evening and spent a lot of time near the small pond. There was an empty depression ahead of this pond, full of small, yellow mountain flowers and we walked around that place also for a long time. Soup time was 6.00 pm and after that dinner was served.
After dinner was over around 7.30 we were called for a very irritating ritual called campfire. Of course, YHAI does not permit burning of wood but we are asked to gather and for those interested to present some song or dance or joke or the like. I would rather spend my time gazing at nature than doing our city stuff. By 8.00-8.30 pm we hit the bed, sleeping on the ground wrapped in a sleeping bag inside a tent. Next day we had to walk to Kedar Kantha, a distance of 7 Km.
Juda ka Talab to Kedar Kantha (May 19, 2004): For me, this part of trek was a simple walk, not much tiring. But for many others it was a tough walk. There was a couple in our group, surely somewhere in their late 50s, and the lady found the going a bit tough. Even a few schoolgirls found the going difficult, probably because we had reached a height of 11,000 feet and the air becomes thin leading to giddiness and vomiting sensation. But all of us ultimately reached our destination safe and sound. The way as usual was beautiful, full of mountain flowers, sheep grazing in the fields and mountain dogs with them. Lunch point again had our temporary tea stall and there were sheep and sheep dogs around along with the villagers tending to the herd.
Kedar Kantha campsite is a vast open ground of the size of two football fields surrounded by misty mountains from all side and a stream running nearby. In fact as soon as we arrive we are offered a drink of rhododendron flower extracts and a little later tea and snacks. This time campfire was optional and I did not attempt it. H and I tried to roam out near our campsite but the wind was picking and it was chilly, so we decided to call it a day. Next day we would walk to Dhunda.
Kedar Kantha to Dhunda (May 20, 2004): On this day, we had to cover a distance of around 9 Km. but much of it was uphill. We had to climb from around 11,000 feet to 12,500 feet and then go down again to around 11,000 feet. A girl in our group was not feeling well and had a very heavy rucksack. She had a strong vomiting sensation and a lot of difficulty walking. I decided to walk with her slowly. After walking for around 1 hour, she actually started vomiting and we asked her to give her rucksack to the guide. She did it with great reluctance. After that, we kept walking slowly and reached at Kedar Kantha Peak (12,500 feet) the highest point in this trek. On the way there were a few small patches of snow were Sunil started having fun and throwing snow on us. But later when he reached at the peak he developed a headache and was a bit off color. In the distance we could see snow covered peaks called Swargrohin
i which literally means ‘stairway to heaven.’
At this peak was a temple devoted to Lord Shiva (sorry I do not have a digital photograph of it). We took a lot many photographs from here and many have turned out well. After a break of about 45 minutes we started off again. On route we had lunch and after that walked mostly down hill. Around 3.15 we reached a tea hut again with a stream running nearby. Probably most of us were feeling a bit of altitude sickness because the whole group was unusually quite at this place, even that group of 14 that acted as our car horn and deck music throughout the trek. After having tea, we slowly started towards our campsite at Dhunda.
This site was smaller than our previous one but still beautiful. Here again the campfire was optional and I missed it. I tried again walking with H but we gave it up after 10 minutes because of the chilly wind. Next day our trek was from Dhunda to Talhouti. In the night once I was securely inside the tent, it started raining and I had to run out to get my shoes in. But next morning it was sunshine again.
Dhunda to Talhouti (May 21, 2004): The distance to be traveled today was 11 Km but it did not involve any steep climb. The highlight of this trek was a huge patch of snow on the way. In my last trek of Sar Pass I had walked on snow for about 11 hours, so this was very little snow for me but for my nephew this was a first and he went berserk over it. All of the one and half-hours, he spent on that patch and in the end had to be pulled out of it to continue with our journey.
Once we reached our campsite my nephew had red eyes and said he was not feeling well. There again was this nasty cold wind in the evening. We wrapped him up properly in woolens and made him eat properly and in the morning he was his sunny self again. At this campsite we also met a sheep dog whom the camp leader used to call Bakri or goat. My nephew was very fond of Bakri.
Talhouti to Lekha Thach (May 22, 2004): This day we had to cover a distance of 12 Km but again not uphill. My nephew on the way was given bumps for talking a lot by a group of five engineering students to whom we were quite friendly now.
The best point on this route was our lunch point near a fast flowing stream that later joins river Tonks. I sat on rocks, near the edge of the stream, my feet dangling in the ice-cold water for a few seconds, to be pulled out quickly and put in again. I spent a long time there, looking at the marvelous view and cursing my hectic city life for a second or two. After that, the scenery would take my attention away. There were wild strawberries growing along the way.
We reached Lekha Thach in the evening around 4.00 pm. The campsite was small compared to others and after tea it started raining which turned into a small hailstorm. Many people enjoyed it a lot from inside of tents but a few of us put our rain sheets and came out. Soup was served inside the tent in this storm and we enjoyed it more than ever.
Later the rain stopped completely. But unfortunately at this campsite campfire was compulsory and we had to suffer through it. Our car horn group went on and on and finally stopped at 11.00 pm. I had told the camp leader at 9.30 that I needed my sleep to continue the next day and many of us got out at that hour. But unfortunately my tent was next to the tent where campfire was going on and I could hardly get any sleep till it finally stopped. That night I was really angry and upset, pledging never to trek with YHAI again.
But when I woke up it was another day and I was ready to go to Seema next.
Lekha Thach to Seema (May 23, 2004): In each trek, some rain must fall and we got ours on this day. When we got up the sky was full of clouds. By the time we had breakfast, it had started raining. So, we started our journey in rain itself. On the way we passed through a small village Datmir where kids were playing, what else but cricket, in a wooden building. In front of it, was a local temple made of wood. We rested, taking shelter in the structure where the kids were playing cricket. It was still raining hard and after a while, we set off again. All the way to our lunch point we kept walking in pouring rain, my shoes were getting wet and water was trickling through my sleeves. The way as usual was beautiful, with many wild rose bushes lining our path but still I had started feeling a bit miserable. I kept taking photographs anyway. On a wooden bridge my nephew managed to lose his rain sheet near a stream but luckily it did not fall in the water. With a complete painful expression he asked me “What should I do?” I told him to get down the bridge and get it back, which he did.
Our campsite at Seema was next to river Tons. It was nice sleeping to the roaring sound of the river. At this camp again we again had to suffer through campfire. Here two ladies, Gopi and Ruchita ran the camp, a first in YHAI history. Next day we a target of 13 Km to reach to our final campsite on way up, HKD.
Snow Capped Peaks on the way from Seema to Har Ki Doonquantity of packed lunch was not adequate. So post lunch session I was almost dragging myself. The way leading to HKD was the best on this route. We were now really getting close to the snowcapped peaks and some of the best photographs have been of this route. My stupid, lousy camera jammed on the way, and our camp leader from Chennai offered us to use his digital camera for remaining of the trek, an offer I will be eternally grateful for.
It was cold here and I quickly put on thick woolens and started roaming near the camp. We had to come for tea and snacks and we were asked to serve it ourselves. Soon, dinner too was over and we kept on gazing around till the camp leader finally forced us into our tents. In the morning, once again we kept on wondering at the site and taking pictures. Very soon it was time to walk back to Seema leaving this excellent valley behind. We traced the same path back to Seema. but it was easier this time, as we were mostly walking downhill. We reached Seema. On May 25, 2004. The next day, May 26, 2004, we walked back to our base camp Sankri 14 Km on foot and 12 Km by Jeep. Next day (May, 27, 2004) we were transferred by bus to Mussorie and we were back to civilization.
I have heard so much about this trek. Have been intending to do some Himalyan treks in Uttaranchal for sometime now.. Will be there in February but unfortunately it is the winter..!
The valley is very beautiful and YHAI has the best camp site, it is a bit ahead of the guest house available to trekkers. Also, YHAI plans a longer route than the normal one but sometimes the group composition can be a bit too much for me. As i said, the constantly shouting 14 people were not the ideal companions to trek with. There are pros and cons of trekking with YHAI.
I went to school in Mussoorie for a few years, but never beyond didn’t realize there was life beyond the Shivaliks – the image you have there, http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/562/1199/320/lonely.jpg reminds of Sonamarg in Kashmir – or even Sahastra Dhara in Dehradun, except that the Doon Valley wouldn’t have as many trees.Thanks for the comment, BTW.:-) Cheers.
Your sports blog is a sheer pleasure. I have not been to kashmir till date but have been to Sahastra Dhara long back. But trekking for me is just an amazing experience.
Not fair, Mridula. Everytime I read one of your travel posts, I end up adding one more destination to my wishlist. The problem is I travel to India only once a year. My wishlist has grown incredibly since I started reading your posts.Your write-ups are very interesting.
Pooja, ditch everything and run to Ladakh at the first opportunity.
What a huge group! It’s a miracle that no one got left behind! I don’t do much trekking at all, but I would love to start. Being in nature is the ultimate escape, but I know what you mean about the joy of heading back to civilization.
I really need to take a trip to India. Your pictures are awesome (I haven’t finished reading yet!). I just read an interesting short story about Indai, titled “Trying Really Hard To Like India” by Seth Stevenson. I got it from a book, but I think you can find it on Slate.com. I have always wanted to travel there, but it really is growing on me. I think I just need to get a travel partner!
Crystal, in the month of May everyday a group of 50 leaves from the YHAI base camp for trekking. In a group that went before us, a couple was separated and they lost there way. They got separate because they were not keeping with the group and trying to spend time alone. YHAI treks are not meant for that. They were forced to stay one night in the open untill the village people found them. That must have been bad!TT I will surely have a look at Slate.com and the article. Thanks for pointing it out. Do visit India but mix some of the regular destinations with a few unusual one, I would say.
Hi Mridula,Really nice piece. I will definitely try and do one of these treks next year. Thanks for sharing.
oh yeah, good one, YHAI treks never sounded so fun, for de north treks on a shoe string budget dis indeed is wat one need to go for!
Emma, please do and if you are trekking for the first time, YHAI gives a very good exposure.I agree Undersky, for 2000 plus you get 7 days in Goa in December! Now this is as shoestring as it can get.
I am a Western Ghats fanatic, love the hills in the south. But this tempts me to expand to the north too. Am already planning my next hike. Thank you.
Sharmishta, hiking in Himalayas is a truly memorable experience, you should give it a try sometime. I have only trekked in Goa in west but it was a lovely experience.
Hi Mridula, Reading your blog brought back exciting memories of my har ki doon trek. I was part of HD 13 batch, merged later with HD 12. I have written a rather long account of my experiences on my website.
Priyank, I saw your photographs and they are lovely. Thanks for stopping by.
Reached here as I’ve been thinking of going trekking either to Valley of Flowers or HKD. Thanks for the information here Mridula, and well presented. 🙂
Indica, thank you.
hi i had gone to har ki dhoon in 2003 ..after reading ur blog i was really nostalgic. Is there a Maj from the army still acting as camp leader.
Aji, we had a super chap who had been part of an Everest expedition as the camp leader.
Goooooood
I have done this trek in 2004 but not remembering which batch
Any way after reading your details of trek
once again I re-collect my trek memories
Thanks
You are welcome Santosh.
I had been to har ki dun in may 2005 and my batch was HD-8. I would like to revisit this place once again but heard that YHAI is no more organising treks to this part… :((
Kunal I am not aware if they offer it anymore. Must be something with the logistics?
I had trekked with the YHAI in the Nineties, both on the National Winter and Summer treks. But as you mention, I found the noise created by some groups a big nuisance. Not only were they shouting and singing loudly in pristine, silent valleys, but also, late into the night, at the “campfire”. Often, they would get up early in the morning and start gossiping loudly,waking up the participants. If anyone objected, they would gang up against that person, and subject him to snide remarks throughout the trek. As a result, I gave up trekking with YHAI, and instead started trekking solo or with close friends. YHAI needs to put in some kind of rules on this kind of behaviour
Narayanan I am entirely with you on this one. But then I also feel they can do very little if people choose to be rowdy.
Wow! Serendipity. I am off to Har Ki Doon trek this May and it’s good to stumble upon your experiences. Hope I have a great one too, considering that one of the gentlemen here has spoken about rowdy gangs at YHAI. I hope I catch some good guys and girls. *Fingers crossed*
I hope you will have a great time Deepika.
Which batch you are in? I mean reporting date.
I must say your group took a great risk with whoever showed sign of vomiting, severe headache and eyes turning red. They all are signs of High Altitude Sickness which can easily turn Fatal. Never take it lightly. I have known a case on this very HKD trek of someone losing life due to this very sickness. A quick action is required to be taken … shift the person to lower altitude by at least 1000 feet.
Now I am wondering who was this in our group?
Hey, I’ve been looking around for people who went on this trek. I had a question regarding the first day. The schedule states that day 1 is only for reporting at base camp. Is there a specific time you need to be there or can you report at any time during the day? I’m flying in from Bangalore and I’ll need some time to make the trip.
Abhi they are alright with anytime of the day. However why don’t you call someone at YHAI and let them know.
Hi
I am from Mumbai
I did this trek in 2007. HKD is best place I visited in my life.
Great alpine meadows….rivers,…waterfalls,,,,snow….
Do engage yourself in star gazing at night when you are camped in mountains. Its awesome !!!
The valley is beautiful. I did this trek in June last year. It was an amazing experience.