Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 4 Pisang to Manang

In May 2012 when I was flying out of Lukla after the Everest Base Camp Trek there were posters all over the place saying, “See you in Manang.” Well, there I was, at Manang. When I woke up at 5.45 in the evening it was completely overcast and the wind was howling all around. When I looked out, I could see it had rained while I slept after the lunch. When I started from Pisang I was hopeful that weather might change but it did not, in the end the clouds ruled once again. However, there was no rain while I walked from Pisang to Manang.

A Village Perched High Up, Pisang to Manang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

If you peer hard in the middle of the picture you can see a village. I was wondering what it would be like to live in such a place? I was told that a lot of people go down from these hightes in the winter. Kids of the local families also study in Kathmandu as there are better schools in Kathmandu. But most of these places have electricity and cable TV as well. And Indian TV channels are very popular.

A Village Perched High Up, Pisang to Manang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Just after I came back from the trek (when toe nails were trying to com out and legs were still angry) I cried out loud, “Why do we trek?” I think the answer lies in the picture above, I primarily trek for the views and I am willing to put up with discomfort for it. However, the tea house treks in Nepal are not really that uncomfortable. After all, once you reach, you walk into a lodge where the food is ordered out of a menu. You (or someone else) do not go to river to collect water so that cooking for the day could start.

The Road to Manang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

From Chame to Manang the road supports only motorcycles. Jeeps can ply on this road only when connecting bridges are ready. Work was already in progress. A lot has been written about this road and its effect on the villages. I am sure there are villages where people don’t stop now because of the road which means loss in tourism income. But then there is a motorcycle or a jeep available if you want to reach somewhere in a hurry. I mean should walking be the only option for people who live here?

Also the guides I met on the trek would always point out that helicopter rescue was available only for trekkers and not if something happened to a local. I would think that it was available to me because I paid for the insurance and not because of any other reason. I wonder how no company has thought of offering an evacuation plan to the locals in medical and other emergencies? That brings me back to trekking in India. We have no helicopter evacuation culture even when tiny Nepal manages it. I think Nepal has it as it is the epicenter of climbing so the evacuation culture  developed and gradually expanded to cover trekkers as well.

Marshyangdi River and the Road, Manang, Annnapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

As we approached closer to Manang the path because incredibly beautifully. I took a few pictures thinking that I would walk back to this place later to click more. Alas when I walked ahead I realized this was not within the walking distance of our Lodge which was named Marshyangdi as well. So, the lesson learned is that not to assume anything about distances in the mountains but to click all the pictures of any given spot when the opportunity is right there.

Having Fun in the Stream, Manang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

I did click these kids though who were having fun in the stream without a cloth or care in the world! Manang was not very far away from this place. I stumbled to my lunch at the lodge a little while later.

Daal Bhaat, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

I love the community dining rooms as you get to meet others and also because usually there is a fire going. I think I preferred Daal Bhaat because Daal goes in easily. They liberally serve you second and third helpings of daal, bhaat and sabzi (curry, rice and vegetables). I would usually take a second helping of daal and nothing else. For me the first serving was always big enough. In fact that empty plate is for taking out some rice so that I would not waste food.

Wild Roses, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

After lunch I went to sleep and woke up to rain, howling wind and clouds. I was not too worried as we had a rest/acclimatization day at Manang and I was not going anywhere at least for a day. After the customary a pot of ginger tea, I had garlic soup with Tibetan Bread for dinner. It was an excellent choice. On this trek I was reading the First Rumpole Omnibus which was another excellent choice. Sleeping at night was no trouble at all. The next day I was not even getting up early as it was my rest (OK acclimatization) day.

Read another day’s account from Annapurna Circuit Trek in Nepal

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Reaching Sangey, Sangey to Dharapani

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Day 2- Dharapani to Chame

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 3 Chame to Pisang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 5 Rest and Acclimatization Day at Manang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 6 Manang to Letdar

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 7 The Snowfall at Letdar

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- The Retreat, Day 8 Letdar to Humde

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- The Retreat, Day 9 Humde to Timang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- The Retreat, Day 10 Timang to Chamche

After a good rest and 2 chapatis and an omelet for breakfast I was ready to start for Pisang. There was no rain when I started off, the route as usual was beautiful. As usual there were clouds.

Starting from Chame, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

I was a bit optimistic as I had a relatively easy time walking from Dharapani to Chame. For the first 2 hours I could sustain that enthusiasm. Then by two and a half hours this bubble burst and I asked Hari to stop for Chai. In the mountains they make tea with milk powder so I always opt for mint or ginger tea. And as I was trekking in June, at the end of the season, sometimes the lodge owners would not have ginger. But mint was never a problem, they would go to their backyard, get some mint leaves and make mint tea!

Weights they Carry, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

People carrying heavy loads is a common sight in the mountains. And this is also a picture to keep in mind when talking about the road vs no road debate. When Hari asked him how much the weight was he replied it was 90 kg. I can’t even imagine what it must be like. When I start pitying myself on a trek I often remind myself of such people. Even this trick failed. I completely conked off after 2.5 hours, I was really tired and in middle of nowhere.

Walking to Pisang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

The trouble with conking off in middle of nowhere is that you are in middle of nowhere, so you can’t stop there. The way went up hill after this bridge. I had some difficulty in negotiating it. However after trudging for two hours we reached our lunch point at Dhikur Pokhari.

Lunch Point, Dhikur Pokhari, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Food always brings some perspective to pain, tiredness and distances to be covered on a trek. I was favoring Dhaal Bhaat for lunch due to some reason for the entire trek. After food, the terrain became relatively flat and I lost that feeling of being terribly tired. The path was incredibly beautiful as well.

View on the Trek, from Chame to Pisang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal 

When I was looking back at the pictures, I see that I have clicked very few pictures when I was feeling washed out! However after lunch, I really must have been feeling better as the number of pictures increased.

Beautiful View, Walking from Chame to Pisang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

I guess such scenery is so alien for my day to day existence that I am willing to put with every discomfort that a trek can through in my path. Walking by such scenes makes up for everything.

Upper Pisang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

The hotel I stayed at Lower Pisang had 67 steps to it! I asked Hari if he gained any pleasure in choosing that one and both of us laughed. But the view of Upper Pisang that I got from there! Upper Pisang is a fabulous place and I think staying at lower Pissang was a good idea as I could always gaze at the beauty of Upper Pisang all the time.

However sleep came before it. I reached Pisang around 2.00 pm and I woke up after one and a half hour’s sleep. For some reason I was having nightmares about my long completed Ph.D. This is a recurring theme, in the best of the places I dream that I have still not submitted my Ph.D. And that is a nightmare for me even after 10 years of completion. When I came out of my room it was cold and windy. Hari asked me if I would like to walk up to the Monastery at Upper Pisang? I am usually so spent that I say no to side excursion but after a good sleep I agreed.

The Monastery at Upper Pisang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

I was surprisingly good for the entire walk, my tiredness has vanished. On the way, a lot more people greeted me and one lady asked if I would like to have tea? Unfortunately I had left all the money at the lodge. What a pity, I would have loved to sit and have a cup of tea in one of the shops. I got partial views of Annapurna II but barely visible kind of views, that don’t even show properly in pictures. By now I was getting used to it. I was the only visitor at the monastery and they let me go in. The village dogs were keen on following not knowing that I am afraid of them.

After coming back it was time for a pot of ginger tea again. Only this time there was too much ginger in my tea. We diluted it twice with hot water giggling all the way. You can guess it was seriously off season when Justic, Erick and I were the only guests at the lodge.

This was the day when my down jacket came out for the first time. It is a gift from Brat 2 (my younger nephew) and it is one of the best gifts I ever got. It has kept me warm in seriously cold places. Dinner was early and by 8.00 pm I was back in my room ready for bed. There was an attached bathroom here as well so I was in luxury.

Chuli East as seen from Pisang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

As I would hit the bed by 8.30 pm every day, it was easy for me to wake up at dawn. And this was the only morning when after taking a peak outside I ran for my camera. The clouds had parted for a while and I could see some peaks, Chuli East straight from the corridor in front of my room!

Pisang Peak and Upper Pisang, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal 

Also visible was Pisang Peak hovering over Upper Pisang. It was a promising start to the day. I was wondering if the weather would open up for a while after this?

After breakfast my task was to walk up to Manang. At Manang we had a rest day as well.

Read another day’s account from Annapurna Circuit Trek in Nepal

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Reaching Sangey, Sangey to Dharapani

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Day 2- Dharapani to Chame

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 4 Pisang to Manang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 5 Rest and Acclimatization Day at Manang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 6 Manang to Letdar

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 7 The Snowfall at Letdar

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- The Retreat, Day 8 Letdar to Humde

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- The Retreat, Day 9 Humde to Timang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- The Retreat, Day 10 Timang to Chamche