I visited Jaipur in December 2016 with my parents-in-law. So I proudly took them to Hawa Mahal as it is one of my favorite monuments. Agreed it is smaller in comparison to Amber Fort and City Palace, but Hawa Mahal is one of the most recognizable icon of the city. Personally I loved the colored glasses, the courtyards and walking around the various levels. We went in with high expectations. My previous visits to Hawa Mahal were beautiful.
To my utter horror they have taken some restoration work and it turns out to be ‘how not to restore Hawa Mahal’ story! I wonder who ordered it and how can they live with themselves, if this is the final work.
When we went to level two, things felt terribly wrong. There are ugly green wooden blocks covering the jharokhas all over the place! I would not use it even at my modest three bedroom home what to say of Hawa Mahal built in 1799 for queens!
The horror story continued at the higher levels too. To block people from climbing into the windows they have put barriers. I can understand that, people may not be behaving responsibly but why to put such ugly railings? Why not make an effort to put in something that blends with the place? Unfortunately I do not have a picture of that particular bit of outrage.
Sense and Lack of It
I am not a heritage person really. But I have been to many heritage sites, in Jaipur and other places. There is something about history that makes me forget it as soon as I get out of the monument! I am not a connoisseur who can understand the intricacies of restorations. Had it been a minor glitch, I would not even notice it. But the present work is so ugly and horrible that even an untrained person like me can spot it without any effort.
The Sad Story of a Beautiful Green Door
I saw this beautiful green door at Hawa Mahal where someone casually attached the horrible looking Kundi on it! I mean how could someone raise their hands to put an outrage like this into the gorgeous door! I don’t think we make doors like it anymore. Who in their right minds would do this?
But Who Ordered This?
I was left wondering who sanctioned and approved this restoration? It is not restoration, it is butchering the monument! It makes me immensely sad to see Hawa Mahal in such a pitiable condition.
When I searched online I can find articles about the 2010 restoration. Back then people were not happy because colored glasses were put in place of jalis. The whole rationale of Hawa Mahal was to let the wind have a free play!
Search as I may, I could not find any articles regarding the current sorry state of the monument. My only sane guess I can make is that maybe, just maybe, this is temporary while the original jalis are being restored.
But this is India which can often leave you incredulous! I won’t be surprised if in somebody’s estimate this is the final restoration of Hawa Mahal. If it is we need to get together and do something. In its current state it is horrible beyond words.
If you feel for the cause please sign my petition at Change.Org
Ramgarh Heritage is a resort that has been painstakingly restored to its 325 year old glory! It is a luxury property in Panchkula. It is a beautiful place to visit, if you wish to relax over a weekend. It will also work for you if you wish to break your journey while heading to the mountains ahead.
I spent two nights there and I had a good time. I had a nicely done premium room in Jagjit Mahal. My room was large, in a city a smallish flat can be cut out in the same space! The bathroom was huge too with modern amenities.
The resort is well spread out. There is a Krishan Temple within the premises. It is an old temple and it lends to the charm of the property.
They have large lawns, pool side area and dedicated halls for conferences and weddings. The resort is popular for weddings and events.
The restaurant used to be the old Diwan Khana and it still goes by the same name. I quite enjoyed my food and beer at Diwan Khana. I mostly went with Indian food and liked it, though I am sure my calorie counter went through the roof.
I still remember their khasta paratha, it is so tasty. Their bati is amazing too. In desserts Shahi Tukda was fantastic. The Diwan Khana has a bar too.
I went for a village walk on one of the mornings. Even though the village is developed now, there are signs of the old days.
There are temples, old houses, dharamshalas to remind us of the old days. I had the best and the freshest ever chach (buttermilk) at a local home.
I was eating so much that I went to the pool on the second evening. The pool area is beautiful, ideal for holding a party. The pool is on the smaller side yet I managed to get a workout by swimming continuously.
Ramgarh Heritage is an excellent place to relax at a long weekend or to break your journey if you are heading to the hills.
PS. I was invited by Ramgarh Heritage to experience the property.
Chhavi and I visited Abbotsford Nainital in March, just before Holi. It is a beautiful cottage built in 1876. It came to the Prasada Family in 1903. The home is full of old family photographs and curios which kept me engrossed. But then I am running ahead of me. Let me start at the beginning.
We took the Kathgodam Shatabdi which leaves New Delhi Railway Station at 6.00 am. That means a 4.30 start from home! That left both Chhavi and me cranky. But we tolerated each-other well throughout the train journey. Then we had to take Avomine for our motion sickness and that made us even crankier!
The road trip from Kathgodam to Nainital was a breeze. But the kid was getting even more crankier by the minute and I don’t blame her. I was scared she would be too tired to enjoy anything after we reached. But I was wrong.
We were staying in the Kings Room which is within the old building. It was a charming room. But more than anything Chhavi perked up at the sight of big open lawn where we had our lunch. It is an outdoor Cafe, Chica, which is open to public. Chhavi had a paratha in the car but I was surprised that she ate lunch as well. Then all the tiredness was forgotten! She was her jumping self again!
I did not anticipate the weather getting so chilly at the nights at Nainital in March. Our room had a blower which we used all night for the first night. I ended up buying a thick sweater and shoes for Chhavi the next day. They gave us hot water bags to put at out feet inside the quilt at night. Even Chhavi relished it to the core, for me it was sheer bliss!
The room had a TV too. Chhavi was happy that she could watch her cartoons! But nobody watched much TV.
Our room was huge, it got natural light throughout the day. It was done tastefully. It had an amazing arched roof! With a small and active child I am quite scared that she would break something! My room had only a few delicate things, like an ashtray, an attar bottle, a candle stand etc. But the main section on the ground floor was full of bric-a-bracs that required care! I have to say Chhavi managed not to break anything once again!
The bathroom has a shower, a bucket, Forest Essentials toiletries, hot water, all little things that made us comfortable.
Janhavi Prasada, a member of the family who owns Abbotsford, was there with us. Chhavi found a new companion, to whom she could talk non-stop. I had to tell her at times, “jaan maat lo tum unki!”
We took it easy on the first day. It was mainly about food, chai, soups and conversations! Which brings me to the next topic, food!
The food at Nainital is homely. And if you travel frequently, that is a blessing. The breakfast had roti, toast, omelette, excellent local jams, butter and tea. I am sure you will get coffee to you want it.
The lunch was Indian style with sabzi, daal, roti and chawal with farm fresh salad. One night we had continental food which both Chhavi and I like.
The second night was a feast for us. We had a bonfire outdoors, we had wine and we had local food with bhang ki chatni. It was a true feast!
There were baby carrots growing in their garden. It was a first for Chhavi, to see carrot getting dug out, and then being handed to her to wash and eat!
The flowers had just started to bloom. The poppies were such a source of cheer!
I was lucky that my stay coincided with the inaugural meeting of the Nainital Book Club. The first meeting was held at Abbotsford and the book they discussed was The Immortals of Meluha. I have not read it but I found the discussion quite engrossing. I wish them the very best for their future meetings.
We went on a hike, and Chhavi and I ventured into the city too, but that is the topic of a separate post!
Traveling with a child gives a different hue to a trip. Children will Abbotsford because they have huge open areas to run around though they have to be careful indoors.
If I were there alone, I would just laze around the homestay and do nothing, or write
PS. My stay at Abbotsford was sponsored by them.