Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 2, Dharapani to Chame

This was one of the few walks when I didn’t die on the route. I came to Chame more or less in one piece. And this was one place where my Ncell phone connection worked. Ncell worked very well on the Everest Base Camp Trek but not so on Annapurna Circuit Trek. In fact, Chame was the only place (starting from Sangey, not counting bigger cities like Pokhara, Kathmandu, Beshishehar) where it worked. It was supposed to work at Mukteshwer too but I never reached there to test the theory.

Green Park Lodge at Dharapani, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Green Park Lodge at Dharapani, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

After a good rest at the Green Park Lodge at Dharapani I emerged refreshed. The lodges have a communal dining area. My room was on the first floor in the left upper corner of the picture. Two young men from US, Eric and Justin were also trekking on the same dates and as our guides always stayed at the same lodge, by the end of the trek we added each-other on Facebook. Both guys were super fit and would almost run on the trek! I would meet them a few hours later at the next lodge!

Crossing the Road, Dharapani to Chame, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

 Crossing the Road, Dharapani to Chame, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

While walking there are always a few stretches where a fountain or a stream decides to flow on the road. Dharapani to Chame also had one such stretch. I saw this horseman to cross it at ease. Usually instead of hopping from stone to stone I take off my shoes and wade through. However, here I thought the water was less than ankle deep and I decided to just walk through it in my new waterproof shoes. My shoes have good waterproofing but the water was more than ankle deep! So I ended up with very wet shoes but luckily I had my sneakers as well. Now that was the only luxury I allowed myself as I had a guide cum porter.

Flowers and Mountains, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Flowers and Mountains, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Soon the wet shoes were forgotten, they now were tied to my small backpack and would dangle around my elbows. After two hours of beautiful but cloud filled scenary, we stopped for tea. Eric and Justin were also there so it was a merry bunch. Rain gods were kind on this day, there were only clouds, no actual rain and it remained that way till I reached Chame.

Giant Himalayan Lily, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Giant Himalayan Lily, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

A little after the tea was over I spotted these Giant Himalayan Lilies (and that is the actual name too). I had to stop and click a picture. I remember I sat down to click this one, so on day 2 as well I was capable of bending. By now, I told Hari, my guide, to go ahead and come what may, I walk at one pace- slow. That is all I am capable of. So he was walking a little ahead of me and both of us were happy.

A Local Woman Walking from Dharapani, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

A Local Woman Walking from Dharapani, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

I was a little behind this woman who was on her way to someplace. Even she paused from time to time while climbing uphill. As for the views my guide told me we could see Manaslu, the eighth highest mountain in the world. I did see it for a while but the picture is blank as the sun was right above it. If I had known that was the only view I would get of Manaslu, I would have tried harder to capture it.

Walking after Tea, Dharapani to Chame, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Walking from Dharapani to Chame, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

I was having a good time walking at my own pace. This was one rare day when I was not too tired. I was still looking forward to lunch. The apple pancake that I had for breakfast had long back faded into nothing.

Beautiful Trail, Dharapani to Chame, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

 Beautiful Trail, Dharapani to Chame, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Lunch was not far away from this spot. We stopped at Thanchuk to have lunch. As this was the lean season the lodge owners were away and our guides cooked for us! I had Daal-Bhaat again but Justin and Erick were eating more exotic things. After food I was willing to walk again for a while. By now I would my thoughts wandered for the 100th about this trek being a very tiring and expensive lesson about trekking in monsoon. I hoped it might change the next day!

Happy Trekking!

Happy Trekking!

After lunch, looking for scenic spots, flowers,  butterflies and birds I was making some progress. At one point, I put down my small backpack to take out the water bottle. There was an elderly gentleman about 15 steps ahead of me. Out of nowhere came a man without any shirt and startled me a little. He however, only asked for water. In his mouth were green leaves half chewed, I wonder what they were. After drinking water he walked ahead of me and I was sure he was drunk. Then he went behind me and after a few minutes he disappeared altogether from my view. Later when I told this incident to Hari, we decided that he will not let me go out of his vision and this is what he did till he left me safely at Pokhara. I was sharply reminded of the fate of Debbie Maveau who was trekking in the Langtang region in 2011.

I reached Chame without any other significant incident. Only my rucksack came apart and we went to the market to buy a new one. All my stuff was now to be transferred to another rucksack which was smaller than my original. Thankfully everything went in except my sleeping bag. That could be tucked on the outside and we were happy.

Noodles for Dinner, Shangri-La Guest Hourse, Chame, Nepal

Noodles for Dinner, Shangri-La Guest Hourse, Chame, Nepal

I sat for an early dinner of noodles after consuming a pot of ginger tea. Even though it is more expensive, I find it easier to drink tea rather than water to maintain the water balance. The noodles went in a flash, they were so good and I was so hungry. While I tried to get up after dinner, I made an ugly face and the person sitting opposite remarked, “Pain?” I laughed and said yes. He replied, “I know the feeling, I have been walking since from morning from Jagat.” My jaws dropped, Jagat was closer to Sangey, for me it was a two day walk which he did in one day!

Hotel Shangri-La at Chame has attached bathroom and those who trek know what a luxury it is! After calling a lot of people (remember this was the only place where my cell phone worked) and telling them I was still alive (no such flippant updates to my father though) I thought I would be able to walk for one more day. The next day I was walking from Chame to Pissang.

Read another day’s account from Annapurna Circuit Trek in Nepal

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Reaching Sangey, Sangey to Dharapani

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 3 Chame to Pisang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 4 Pisang to Manang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 5 Rest and Acclimatization Day at Manang

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Last year I trekked up to Everest Base Camp in Nepal in May so I was determined to go back this year. I could not take leaves in May, the earliest I could leave was 8th June. I landed at Tribhuvan International Airport on that very day. The plan was to trek the Annapurna Circuit. In my enthusiasm I did not factor in the monsoon at all! I was trekking with the good folks at Above the Himalayas again.

There is a road for the part of the way of the trek, a jeep track up to Chame and a motorcycle track up to Manang. When I started from Kathmandu I thought the bus would go all the way to Sangey. But it stopped at Beshishahar, where the restaurant had a functional wifi!

On the way to Beshishahar there were times when I was happy for the Avomine induced sleep and then there were times when I hated it. I hated it when I realized the views were beautiful but I would still fall asleep because of the medicine.

After lunch we took a jeep for Sangey. The jeep kept playing musical chairs within the city first. And for my life I could not figure out who the driver was, so many people drove it for a short distance. The real driver was eventually revealed, thankfully he was a cautious driver.

The Road till Chame, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

The Look of the Road from Besgishahar to Chame, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

The road, no not actually road but the dirt track required driving skills and our driver had it. If you have a bad back, this road is not for you. If you have a normal back, chances are you will develop a bad back. But it was worth it for the views that greeted us! At Sangey the lodge was right next to the river. After a hearty dinner I fell asleep easily. I woke up at night to thundering rain, only I convinced myself that it was the river and not the rain. Anyway I was happy it rained like that at night, not when I was walking.

A Waterfall near our Lodge at Sangey, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

A Waterfall near our Lodge at Sangey, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

After reaching Dharapani I wrote the following in a dairy I maintained on this trek

You can watch ‘Colors’ (Hindi TV Channel) at Dharapani. It is equally unbearable to watch at 1960 meters. I wonder what it is with me and treks. Due to one reason or other my treks just seem to be beyond me. This time I might be a tad fitter than the last time but the season I picked up! Today it was completely overcast, rained thankfully only for 1.5 hours, but not too hard. If it remains overcast I might walk through the entire trek without any views. So next time if I do not get leaves in May I will trek in Spiti or Ladakh.

Before I will head out for a major trek next year I will read this account again. Hopefully the above paragraph will knock some sense into my stubborn head.

Trekking in June, Sangey to Dharapani Walk, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Trekking in June, Sangey to Dharapani Walk, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

When I started from Sangey, I was happy to see various waterfalls and streams. We stopped for a mint tea at Jagat after two hours. I desperately needed it. My lunch was at a very scenic place called Taal. The trouble was that rains started about an hour before. Also we had to get down from the road to get lunch. This would mean we would climb to the road again but that was the plan that my guide Hari recommended, so I went along with it.

Village Taal, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Village Taal, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Lunch on a trek is not a chore, it is also not a calorie counting exercise. I eagerly look forward to it. I eat without any guilt because I know if I do not I will eventually faint on the way itself! While I waited for my Daal Bhaat (rice with curry) I was happy that I was out of rain. Soon my food arrived, the rain stopped and that surely lifted my spirits. We walked back to the road again after food and all that was left now was to enjoy the view and reach Dharapani.

A Butterfly on the Way, Annapurna Circuit Trek Nepal

A Butterfly on the Way, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

As this was the first day, I could still bend to click butterflies. I was using the 18-55 lens as changing lens while walking does not appeal to me. This beauty was obliging as well, it let me click quite a few pictures before saying enough is enough!

On my treks I have often felt like a hobbit when I walk with my guide, when no other soul to be seen around for miles. But this time when I put my bulky raincoat I felt like Gandalf in his cloak sans magic. But it was magic what I needed to stop the rain, tear the clouds away and get those fabulous views.

Miles to Go, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Miles to Go, Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Walking for the first time on the route, I obviously do not know how far I had to go to reach Dharapani, though my legs were screaming that they wanted to know. When I asked Hari, I got the correct answer whatever it was. It was not the pahari (hill people’s) answer, which is- it is just a short distance away!

A Stream at the Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

A Stream at the Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal

Finally taking one step after the other, some seven hours later after we started from Sangey I stumbled at the lodge at Dharapani. The last thing I wrote in my diary on this day was- “Why do I do this to myself and why is my damn phone not working”

Next day we would walk from Dharapani to Chame.

Read another day’s account from my Annapurna Circuit Trek in Nepal

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Day 2- Dharapani to Chame

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 3 Chame to Pisang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 4 Pisang to Manang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 5 Rest and Acclimatization Day at Manang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 6 Manang to Letdar

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- Day 7 The Snowfall at Letdar

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- The Retreat, Day 8 Letdar to Humde

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- The Retreat, Day 9 Humde to Timang

Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal- The Retreat, Day 10 Timang to Chamche

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Mauritius souvenirs Spa Sparrow Speakers Specific Learning Disability Test Speed Boat Spicejet Spice Route Spices Spiti Spituk Spituk Monastery Splendid Starling Sports Sports Bar Spot Billed Duck Spotted Deer Spotted Dove Spotted Owl Spotted Owlet Squirrel Srilankan Airlines Srinagar Srinagar Airport St+ART Stags Head Stalactites Stalagmites Stars States Steppe Eagle Stepwell Steve Winter Stick Fishing Stilt Fishing Stilt Walking Stones Stop Motion Stratford upon Avon Strawberries Streaked Laughingthrush Street Artists Street Food Street Game Street Photography Stuff Sufi Sukawati Sultan Saray Summer Holidays Summer trips Summer Vacations Sundy Brunch sun flare Sungai Pasu Sunrise sunset Sunset Cruise Sun Temple Support A Life supportbanks Surajkund Surajkund Mela Surajkund Mela 2015 Surajkund Mela 2017 Surang Tila Surfing Suryagarh Surya Mandir Suvarnabhumi International Airport Sweet Dish Swimming Pool Swiss Switzerland T3 Tab Table Tennis Tabo Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces Taj Mahal Taj Safari Takin Taktsang Monastery Talhauti Taling Chan Floating Market Taman Negara Ta Prohm TAT Tata Sumo Tawny Eagle Taxi taxi driver TBC Asia TBC Asia 2016 Tea Te Aroha Tea Tree Face Wash Tel Aviv Temple Temps de Flors Tengboche Tennis Tent Tent City Dhordo Tents Terengganu Terma Linca Terminal 1 Terminal 2 Terminal 3 Thai Airways Thai Cooking Thai Food Thailand Thailand Happiness Street Festival Thai New year Thamel Thames The Almond Tree The Andaman The Apple Blossom The Beckoning Silence The Climb The Farm The Guardian Angels The Hatu The Imperial The Imperial Salon The Khyber The Khyber Spa by L'occitane The Kirana Shop The Lind The Lind Boracay Themes The Museum of Floral Culture The Nanda Devi Affair The Oberoi The Oriental Blossom The Peak The Rajputana The Story of Tublu The Taaras The Ultimate Abyss The Wall The White Peaks The Whole Earth Theyyam Thiksey Thiksey Monastery Thimphu Things to do Things to do in Dubai Things to do in Sharjah This Game of Ghosts This Monday Thomas Cook India Thongsomboon Club Three Rondavels Tibet Tiger Tiger's Nest Tiger Air Tiger Den Tiger Safari Tigress Timang Times of India Tintswalo Safari Lodge Tips Tomaz Humar Top 5 top 10 top 10 posts Total Lunar Eclipse Touching the Void Tourism Tourism Board Tourism Hunt 2012 Tourist Guideline Tourists Tower Hill Toy Train traditional Traffic Jam trains Trams Transit Travel Agents Travel App travel blogger Travel Blogging travel budget Traveling with Kids Travel Insurance travel magic travel niche travel plan Travel Plans Travel Quotes Travel Roundup Travel Secrets Travel Talk Travel Wire Asia Travel with Children Travel Writing Travspire TREC1000 Tree Tree House Tree Pie trees Trek Trekking Trinco Blu Trincomalee Trinkets Tripadvisor Travelers Choice Award 2016 Trip of Wonders Tripofwonders trips Trou Aux Biches TTM Tube Tummy Tup Island Turbulence Turtle Reserve Turtles TV TV Show Twilight Twitter Udaipur UE Boom UE Boom Bluetooth Speakers Ugrasen Ki Baoli UK Visa UK Visa in Delhi Ultimate Ears Umaid Bhawan Palace Umbrellas Umiam Lake Unaffected Uttarakhand Unawatuna Uncancel Underdoggs UNESCO World Heritage Sites Unusual Travel Quotes UT Valentines Day Valley of Flowers Vasant Kunj Vegan Vegetable Market Vegetarian Vegetarian Food Vehicles Vembanad Lake Vendors Venezia Venice Verditer Flycatcher Vervet Monkey VFS Global VFS New Delhi Victoria Crowned Pigeon Victoria Harbor videshi View from the Hotel Window Vijay Vilas Palace Village Villas Vine vineyard Vintage Cars Visa Visa Application Visa on Arrival Visa on Arrival for Thailand Visit Britain Visually impaired VOA Walk walking Walking Tours Walking Trails walks Walled City Wallet Walnut Trail Wanderlust waste Wat Arun Wat Benchamabophit water Water Drops Waterfall Water Festival Water Lilies Water Lily Waterproof Water Snake water sports Water Sports Instructor female Water Tank Wat Pho Wat Phra That Wayanad Weather Weddings weekend destinations Weekend Getaways Weight West End Hotel Mumbai West Papua What to Wear Wheat whispering winds White African Daisy White Beach White Brested Kingfisher White Browed Wagtail White Capped Red Waterstart White Cheeked Barbet White Crested Laughing Thrush White Flowers White Rann White Rann Camp White Rann Resort White Rhino White Throated Kingfisher White Wagtail Wild Ass Wild Dogs Wildebeest Wildlife Wild Mint Soap Windermere Window window seat Wine Wingpod Purslane Wing Shot Winter Winter Break WIP Wired Tailed Swallow woman taxi driver Women women's day Women in Leadership Women Only Trip Wonderfulindonesia World Environment Day Yacht Yaowarat Street Year Round Up Yellow Billed Hornbill Yellow Toed Green Pigeon YHAI YHI Spa Yoga Yogyakarta You can make your dreams work Youtube Yvel Yvel Design Center Zanskar Zebra Zenfone Zenfone2 Zenfone 2 Deluxe ZenFone 3 Zenfone Zoom Zenpad 8 zinnia Zipline Zulu Zulu Dance Zurich Delhi Flight

Mridula Dwivedi

I started my India travel blog, Travel Tales from India in 2005. In 2016 I realized Travel Tales from India and Abroad better reflected my writings. I love to walk and ride in metros around the world. I have not been everywhere, I am not even close, but it is on my list. I also quit my job as a professor in 2015, it was a happening year! I did a Ph.D. from IIT Kanpur ages ago!

If you wish to collaborate with me, please check out my media kit. You can write to me at mridulablog@gmail.com

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