I discovered the fascinating village of Nirona on my third trip to Kutch in Gujarat. I admit I am not big on crafts. But Nirona changed that completely.
Our group visited 3 houses in the village, each specializing in a different craft. There was Mr. Husen’s home where they made copper bells, then we were drawn in the world of Rogan Art at the Khatri household. Our final stop was by the lacquer work done in the village.
Lunch at Pooja Tiffin Service at Nirona
But lunch came first. By the time we reached Nirona it was lunch time and we had a hearty local meal at the Pooja Tiffin Service. They serve food in the local home. I interacted with the women who cooked it.
It was the simple Indian fare of daal, sabzi, roti and rice but so delicious. I still remember the butter milk in particular. If you want to have food in Nirona do go to Pooja’s home for lunch or dinner.
The Copper Bells of Nirona
With our stomachs full we headed to the copper bells home of Mr. Husen. You can read a detailed account of the visit here. The most fascinating aspect of the bell making was the hammering of the bell to change its sound!
The Famous Rogan Art of Nirona
Our second stop was at the Khatri Household which is the custodian of the Rogan Art. They have trained others, but they are credited with bringing the art back from the brink of extinction. Mr Sumar Khatri (on the right in the picture below) guided us through the process of the Rogan Art.
Rogan means of oil, the word originates from Persian. The paint is made using castor oil and mixing it with natural colors. Then the panting on the fabric is done which is a time consuming process.
The work is sold only from the Khatri Home. Prime Minister Narendra Modi gifted the tree of life Rogan Art painting to the then President Barack Obama.
And yet the Khatri family goes so easy with their art. You can touch the work, model in it if you find the price too high. I bought a red stole which I could afford. I truly liked it too. But I modeled in a stole which was worth 10,000 Indian Rupees!
I asked if they accept cards to which they said there was an ATM near the house. The village got it after the visit of a high ranking bank official to Nirona!
Our last stop was at the household that does lacquer work. The gentleman who does it ended up in India after the 1971 war. They use the lacquer to decorate wooden pieces.
As we walked to our cabs through the dusty streets of Nirona I was left wondering at the wealth of the craft that resides in one small village of Kutch. It also left me thinking- how serious we are to preserve it?
However there is much more to Rann Utsav and Kutch. You can read more about it here. The video above gives a glimpse of my complete trip to Kutch.
PS. I was invited to Rann Utsav by the Gujarat Tourism Board.