Gustor Festival at the Spituk Monastery in Ladakh

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One of the highlights of my winter trip to Ladakh was the opportunity to attend the Gustor Festival at the Spituk Monastery in Ladakh. This year it was held on 7th and 8th January. As it falls in winter it is attended by the locals in large numbers, tourists were in minority!

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Everyone Loves a Festival!

It is said that Buddhism was introduced in Ladakh in 200 BC during the reign of King Ashoka. The census of 2011 puts 66% of the population in Leh as Buddhist. Monasteries are important religious and cultural centers.

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Winter is Harsh in Ladakh

The winters are harsh in Ladakh. In January the maximum temperature would often be in single digit and minimum in double digit minus! A festival in such a weather is just what is need to cheer up.

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Cham or Mask Dance at Gustor Festival, Spituk

Gustor is a religious festival where lamas perform cham or mask dances. Cham is a choreographed dance performed only by lamas. The dances symbolize the destruction of evil spirits. The festival ends by burning an effigy which is a symbol of destruction of evil. Some of the dances are performed in pairs where the deity appears with a consort. Some dances are performed in a group.

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Only Lamas can Perform Cham!

The masks can represent fiery, benign and pleasant spirits. Animal masks are also used. The masks are made of clay and paper. They are painted with natural colors and polished with gold and silver. The dress is usually silk and brocade. It is said that the masked dances have existed since 8th century AD in Ladakh. The dances are performed by monks to the tunes of long horns, cymbals, conch shells, bells and many other instruments.

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Gustor Festival, Spituk Draws a Large Crowd

Our soft spoken guide Tashi told us to go early to the Spituk Monastery as it would get crowded during the day. And he was absolutely right. At the monastery there is a statue of Goddess Kali which is open to public only on the Gustor Festival days. When I went in it was not crowded. But while we were walking out in the afternoon for lunch, the queue was spilling down to the middle stairs.

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The Gustor Festival, Spituk

The good folks had cordoned off a small seating area all for us marked as media. We had the balcony seats. The Grand Dragon Hotel (my sponsor for the trip) had sent in kahwa too. We were all set to enjoy the festival.

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Seems Like a Tasty Cell Phone!

As the day progressed the place got more and more crowded. I had a gala time watching the cham dances and crowd watching.

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Tourists Were in Minority!

At Gustor Spituk the tourists were in minority. This couple from Japan was sitting next to me on the Delhi-Leh flight. I had the window seat. I offered to click pictures for them too. They were very happy with the results. However, they spoke very little English so we couldn’t talk. I was happy to spot them at the festival too and on our return flight as well!

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Bright Colors on a Cold Day!

It was a feast to watch the dances and be amidst the incredible energy that the crowd and the music was generating. It was a jolly crowd.

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The Headgear was Splendid!

Around 1.00 pm it was time for lunch. Our lunch was at the hotel! It was time to get out of the courtyard. Our original plan was to come back in the second half again.

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A Window to the Gustor Festival!

By now even the windows were taken. It was a task to get out! We really has to squeeze our way through the crowd. It was an extremely well behaved crowd, there was simply no space to march out! I was so happy after I managed to get out in the open. I also have a very practical point to make. Regulate your water intake or taking a loo break is also going to be tough. Looking at the crowd we didn’t go back in the second half!

Gustor Festival at Spituk is the first monastery festival I have watched. I wish I get to see many more!

PS. I was invited to Ladakh in winter by the Grand Dragon, Ladakh.

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26 thoughts on “Gustor Festival at the Spituk Monastery in Ladakh”

  1. Brilliant photographs and a nice account on Gustor Festival. I wish to visit Leh during the time of Gustor Festival in future.

    Such festivals make you aware about lot of local practices/culture, which is difficult to explore otherwise.

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