Everest Base Camp Trek- Day 11, Namche Bazaar to Lukla

By Mridula Dwivedi June 6, 2012 44 Comments , , ,

I had told Deepak the last night that I would not get up early as it hardly made any difference to when we would reach Lukla. Namche Bazaar to Luka was also two days worth of going up which we were descending in one day. But as I went to sleep at 8.00 pm in the evening I was up once again by 5.30 am and we were heading out after breakfast at 7.30 am. I ate roti (flat Indian bread) with Omelet without any difficulty.  Namche Bazaar was about to host a festival in a few days time and it was gearing up for it.

Namche Bazaar Getting in a Festive Mood
Namche Bazaar Getting in a Festive Mood

As there was a festival when we were going down a lot of people were walking up to Namche either to participate in the festival or carrying supplies for the festival. So there was a bit of a merry crowd on the way. Soon we reached a point where Deepak said this was the last view of Everest. The sun was shining brightly over the view but I had to click a picture and share it as well. While coming up we had not seen this as there were clouds.

The Last View of the Everest near Namche Bazaar
The Last View of the Everest near Namche Bazaar

I met the South African group once again. They were getting a certificate made at a check post that they completed the Everest Base Camp Trek. I decided to give that a miss. Also they reminded me, “If we meet so often, rumors will fly!” I once again laughed at it.

I am told that April is the main season for trekking to the Everest Base Camp and it can get really crowded then on the suspension bridges as well as the lodges.

The High Suspension Bridges on the Route, Everest Base Camp Trek, Nepal
The High Suspension Bridges on the Route, Everest Base Camp Trek, Nepal

Talking of suspension bridges at the either end there used to be a notice saying if you spot anything amiss with the bridge please call this number. The notice was in Nepali language but it would create a small flutter in my stomach. I am not really scared of heights but even then when I would reach the middle of the bridge sometimes I would feel it a bit.

And talking of lodges I was told one can trek in May without pre-booking the lodges as there was less traffic but in April this might mean walking up to the next village to get a lodge!

Soon we had climbed down to the bridge with the prayer flags. On this day I was using my 70-300 zoom throughout the day. So I clicked these lovely ladies crossing the bridge from a distance.

The Bridge with the Prayer Flags, the Closest to Namche Bazaar
The Bridge with the Prayer Flags, the Closest to Namche Bazaar

I was quite cheerful up to now and it felt like Namche to Lukla was doable without falling apart. How wrong I was! Still I was walking cheerfully with some music playing in my head constantly. There were a lot of birds chirping along the route and this streaked laughingthrush had no fear for me or my camera.

Streaked Laughingthrush
Streaked Laughingthrush

Then there were a lot more flowers too but the mighty peaks had vanished from the sight.

Flowers on the Way
Flowers on the Way

We soon reached another check post after which Deepak gave me my trekking permit saying, “Keep it as a souvenir.” And I have done so. I met other people on the way who had trekked along the same dates and they asked how much my 70-300mm weighed? I told them it was 2 kg hence I didn’t use it much on the way. We walked together for a while and saw this kitten and we had to click.

A Kitten on the Way
A Kitten on the Route

I kept walking thinking we would eat lunch at Phakding but after a while Deepak suggested we should stop for lunch before Phakding and I was surely hungry. So we stopped at a lodge and I was the only customer in the dining room. I asked for Daal Bhaat (rice and curry) again with a fried egg. It was very peaceful inside and I was quite startled to suddenly hear a child crying. I didn’t notice the crib till the child cried! It was a 3 month old baby belonging to the daughter of the lodge owner and he got pacified very soon. My meal also arrived quickly and after a tea it was time to walk again.

Holyhocks on the Route, Everest Base Camp Trek, Nepal
Holyhocks on the Namche Lukla Route, Everest Base Camp Trek, Nepal

The path was still full of flowers and I was happy clicking them. I am quite partial to flowers actually. So when I saw this riot of colors in front of the lodge I had to click again.

Flowers at a Lodge, Namche Lukla Route, Everest Base Camp Trek Nepal
Flowers at a Lodge, Namche Lukla Route, Everest Base Camp Trek Nepal

By 4.00 pm we reached another place where we decided to sit down for tea. We had already crossed Phakding. From there Deepak started pointing out the route to Lukla to me and I told him, “The way you explain it sounds like 3 hours away!” And he didn’t say much and that was ominous. By now I was tired. My knees would protest whenever I tried to get up after a break. There were still waterfalls and prayer flags on the way but I was reaching for my camera less and less.

A Water Fall on the Way
A Water Fall on the Way

By now whatever was downhill was giving me pain. I was still fine with a bit of uphill as my knees would behave then. There was a particular bird call that I was hearing since morning and by evening it had started to irritate me. But then there would be something on the way that would cheer me up temporarily.

The Prayer Flags, Namche to Lukla, Everest Base Camp Trek
The Prayer Flags, Namche to Lukla, Everest Base Camp Trek

The surprising part was that even though I had walked this route while going up, I remembered very little of it. So I did not had a clue how far I was from Lukla. Then Deepak reminded me of the gate devoted to the first Nepali women Everest Climber, Pasan Lamu Sherpa and I eagerly started waiting for it as that was the entrance to Lukla. Somewhere I saw a bit of color in a field and I clicked another picture.

A Colorful Field, Namche Lukla Walk, Everest Base Camp Trek
A Colorful Field, Namche Lukla Walk, Everest Base Camp Trek

Finally in the late evening I stumbled through the Pasang Lamu Sherpa gate once again thoroughly tired and exhausted. Then we walked through the narrow roads of the main market to reach our lodge, the Nest which is right next to the airport. Trust Deepak to choose the lodge which was the last one on the route till the end!

The Nest at Lukla, our Last Lodge
The Nest at Lukla, our Last Lodge

It was past 6.00 pm when I finally stumbled through the gates of the Nest and it had been another 11 hour day. But then it was over. I only had to stumble up to the airport the next day to catch the Lukla flight, if it took off! However much I love mountains I was longing for some clean clothes, hot water shower (it was available in Lukla too but not the clean clothes, all my clothes were dirty by now) and cakes. Hence I wanted good weather so that the Lukla flight would take off. I had tea and apple pie and then mushroom soup and bread for dinner. The room at the lodge was big and clean and it had an attached bathroom. It was enough for the night. The cakes and the shower could wait for one more day.

You can read the account of the other days of the Everest Base Camp Trek too-

Day 1 of the Everest Base Camp Trek: Kathmandu Lukla Flight, Lukla Phakding Walk

Day 2 and 3 of the Everest Base Camp Trek: Phakding to Namche Bazaar and Rest and Acclimatization at Namche

Day 4 of the Everest Base Camp Trek: Namche Bazzar to Tengboche

Day 5 and 6 of the Everest Base CampTrek: Tengboche to Dingboche, Rest and Acclimatization at Dingboche

Day 7 of the Everest Base Camp Trek: Dingboche to Lobuje

Day 8 of the Everest Base Camp Trek: Lobuje to Gorek Shep, Gorek Shep to Everest Base Camp and Back

Day 9 of the Everest Base Camp Trek: Gorek Shep to Kala Pathar, Descent to Pheriche

Day 10 of the Everest Base Camp Trek: Pheriche to Namche Bazaar

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44 thoughts on “Everest Base Camp Trek- Day 11, Namche Bazaar to Lukla”

  1. was closely following an admirable lady in her adventurous trek through its tale. Waiting for another tale to unfold here 🙂

  2. awesome and exciting read mridula … thnx for sharing the story and all those wonderful pictures. and thnx for being an inspiration. also wish u more of these awesome trips / treks.

  3. And thus comes to endav eventful journey….. truly enjoyed ur writeup on it.. so true to wht u must hv felt with hardly any exxag… kudos!

  4. Suresh many thanks for your encouragement and reading my posts 😀

    Thank you Sandeep, I will say amen to that!

    Meena I was still too tired to exaggerate 😀 thank you.

    Madhukar many thanks.

    Thank you Niranjan, thank you for reading my posts.

    Thanks Rama it was a tiring day but thankfully it was the last one.

    Kusum I sincerely wish your ankle is better next year.

    1. Thanks Bhavana. For a moment it did cross my mind that all the big peaks are vanishing now but then I had the whole day’s trekking ahead of me to worry about 😀

  5. Beautiful pictures. You leterally took me to the hills. As a learning photographer I would also appreciate if you gave the camera settings for each photo. I know you have mentioned that you have not used flash most time.

  6. Hi Mridula
    Thank you for all the posts, photo’s etc. So pleased to have found this. I feel pleased for you and inspired for me. I wonder if you ever considered The Annapurna Circuit as another option? Or perhaps a future trek?

    1. Patrick have you done Annapurna? That is what I plan to do next year 😀

      And thanks for stopping by and sharing your thoughts.

      1. Hi Mridula
        No I hav’ent done the Annapurna Circuit My hiking so far has been in the UK, Swiss Alps and a little in US but it was after reading ‘Annapurna Circuit’ By Andrew Stevenson that I was totally inspired to live a boy hood dream of hiking in the foot hills of the Himalayas. The AC seemed more realistic and holiday like compared with EBC but after reading blogs such as yours I think I would prefer EBC, maybe both?

  7. Hi, came across your blog and just read the whole account of your trek up and down EBC.
    My friends and I will be going this September and am looking forward to it but at the same time feeling very nervous about the toughness of the trek!
    Must say your blog gave me a good idea of what to expect.
    Thanks for sharing your story!

  8. I have loved reading your blog.
    I am doing Everest Base Camp and Kala Pathar in April 2013. Your blog has reiterated to me how difficult the trek will be and how much training I need to do in the next 6 months.

  9. Loved to read about your journey. I have just been told that I am off the waiting list and now on the trek to EBC in April – Hope I have enough time to get myself kitted up and fit!

  10. Mridula, What a wonderful blog. I’m geering up for my trek to Everest Base Camp and I found your story to be so helpful. I hope that my experience (and pictures) will be as wonderful as yours 🙂

  11. Congratulations on completing this trek and thank you for such a wonderful blog with beautiful pictures. I am planning to go there this October and cant wait for it. Do you have a list of things you packed for the trek and also any contact for your guide?

  12. Hi Mridula,

    how would you rate the EBC trek considering all the treks that you have done so far?
    Is it really worth the strenuous efforts?
    You walk and climb hills for days and ultimately what is it that you achieve after reaching EBC, and walking down back to Lukla?

    1. Hi Manohar,

      I really liked the trek and I usually trek for the views. So for me this was a beautiful trek which I was able to complete as well. Not so lucky this year, had to turn back from Annapurna Circuit Trek. I don’t think I did it to say that I achieved anything. It was done because I like trekking.

  13. I don’t trek but reading your blog takes me up the hill and my legs ache when yours! I love the beautiful pictures that take me right up to the mountains and wish I could be there too. Love to read more of your adverntures.
    God Bless.

  14. I must take care of my knees, they should not start taking much before I do that… Well done, so beautifully narrated …..

  15. Just read your entire EBC trek experience and I must congratulate you for all the endurance and not giving up spirit.
    Reading the posts has made me inclined to try the EBC trek sometime in the near future too, although I have absolutely no clue how fit I am for it 😀

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Mridula Dwivedi

I started my India travel blog, Travel Tales from India in 2005. In 2016 I realized Travel Tales from India and Abroad better reflected my writings. I love to walk and ride in metros around the world. I have not been everywhere, I am not even close, but it is on my list. I also quit my job as a professor in 2015, it was a happening year! I did a Ph.D. from IIT Kanpur ages ago!

If you wish to collaborate with me, please check out my media kit. You can write to me at mridulablog@gmail.com

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